ACK 10.24: Gulab jamun

Combine the powdered milk, white flour, baking soda, and ground cardamom in a large mixing bowl. Warm the milk over low heat. Rub the ghee or butter into the flour with your fingertips, slowly add the warm milk, and mix well to give a firm but pliable dough.

Form the dough into 25 to 30 balls, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter, in this way: place enough dough for one ball squarely between the palms of your hands. Roll the dough between your palms with a circular motion. Don't cup your hands; use your palms, not your fingers. It is a good sign if some of the dough sticks to your palms.

After 4 or 5 seconds, gradually release the pressure between your hands while simultaneously speeding up the circular motion. If you're doing it right, a ball of dough should form that is perfectly smooth and free from cracks. Roll all the balls like this. If the dough becomes too dry, knead more milk into it. (If you like, insert a small piece of rock candy into each ball and carefully seal the opening. When the milk balls are deep-fried, the rock candy melts).

Heat the ghee in a karhai or wok over very low heat. The heat must be kept at the lowest setting so that the milk balls cook slowly and thoroughly. Put the milk balls into the ghee. They will sink for a minute or two. Keep them from burning on the bottom by turning them with a slotted spoon. As the milk balls rise to the surface and float, spin them in the ghee by gently brushing over the top of them every 30 seconds or so with the back of the slotted spoon, to insure that they cook uniformly. Cook them for about 25 minutes, or until they are nicely browned. During this time, you can raise the heat slightly to help them swell.

While the milk balls are cooking, make the syrup. Boil the water and sugar in a pot for about 3 minutes to dissolve the sugar. Then stir in the rose-water and remove the pot from the heat.

Test to see if the milk balls are properly cooked by taking one out and pressing it with your finger to make a dimple. Now release your finger. If the ball immediately springs back to shape, they're ready. Another test is to put one in the syrup; if it doesn't collapse after 3 minutes, the balls are cooked thoroughly. Remove them and put them in a colander to drain. Then transfer the balls to the syrup, where they will become soft and spongy. Soak from 30 minutes to 2 days. Gulab jamuns are best served at room temperature, or slightly warm.