Several points to remember when using spices

• Before using whole spices, especially those you buy in large quantity, pick through them to eliminate any small stems or stones.

• Keep all your spices in tightly sealed jars or cans in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. To avoid spoilage from constantly dipping into the big jars, keep spices for daily use in small bottles. Be sure to label all jars and containers.

• Many recipes call for ground spices. Rather than purchase powdered spices, which soon lose their flavor, it's always better to buy whole spices and grind them yourself as you need them. In India it's done on a grinding stone, but an electric coffee grinder is excellent for this work. The aroma and taste of freshly ground spices is incomparable.

• Avoid commercially made curry powder or gourmet powders. Often made with inferior spices, these flavorless curry blends lend a wearisome uniformity to your cooking. In India they're practically unknown. It is far better to make fresh spice blends of your own.

• Sometimes a recipe requires a masala paste. You can make this by grinding together the specified spices and a few drops of water with a mortar and pestle. Then fry the paste in ghee or oil for a minute or so to bring out its flavor before adding the other ingredients.

• Before beginning to cook, read the recipe carefully. Gather the spices you need near the stove. There may be no time later to stop and hunt for a spice. Something on the stove may burn if you do.

• Sometimes you can use one spice as a substitute for another you don't have. Often you can even leave out the unavailable spice and the dish will still turn out fine. The recipes indicate some possible substitutes and deletions. Experience will also help you.

• Even though dried herbs are often twice as pungent as fresh ones, use fresh herbs whenever possible. Instructions for growing and storing your own coriander and fenugreek are given here.